Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 1998 - 'Untitled'

Set in a bus depot at Victoria, the background consisted of a screen made out of corrugated iron and covered in bullet holes while the catwalk was shielded by a pyrex box. McQueen began the show by simulating a storm using strobes and thunderous sound effects, however despite the over-clichéd pathetic fallacy the first few looks of the collection appeared to be less ominous than expected. In fact, amidst yellow hues, khaki geometric prints and edgy tailoring the most striking thing within the first half of the show was the inclusion of men. 

Everyone knows McQueen is a sucker for androgyny and he pushes the boundaries beyond what is controversial and shocking, especially when it comes to feminism. So it is interesting to see that he emasculates the male models by placing a metal chin brace over their face and constricting his arms within a jumper.

 

As the first half of the show progressed, McQueen's reputation as being 'the bad boy of fashion' started to become apparent as models in skimpy swimsuits that were cut to reveal their breasts appeared on the catwalk. Gisele Bundchen made her catwalk debut on McQueens slippery catwalk wearing nothing but silver tassels draped across her chest. This show put her on every other designers radar after McQueen called her 'the body', a nickname still mildly associated with the supermodel today.

Gisele Bundchen's catwalk debut, 1998

McQueen kicked the show up another controversial notch as water illuminated by yellow lights poured down onto the models. He originally intended to call the collection 'The Golden Shower' however due to its obvious pornographic connotations American Express (his sponsor) forced him to change it, thus ironically titling it 'Untitled'.

McQueen styled the models in the second half of the show exclusively in white and the rain pour added to the risque outfits by making them increasingly translucent. White muslin trains dragged along the inky floor of the tank while the models faces become more and more stained with black mascara. Skin-tight white latex and drenched material clings to the models and adds to the provocative theatrics of the show in classic McQueen spirit. 

Although the show was almost artistically pornographic and despite the fetishistic connotations the most memorable part of the show was an aluminium ribcage corset cast from human skeleton styled over a black glittery dress by Shaun Leane. As Leane was creating the corset, McQueen asked him to add a tail, inspired by the movie The Omen which featured the skeleton of a half-raven and half-dog. 

Middle image by Solve Sundsbo

The show contained an unprecedented level of nudity that oozed with blatant sex appeal, and by the time McQueen had made his appearance on the catwalk, hand in hand with Kate Moss wearing a Gold suit commissioned by American Express the 1998 spring/summer collection was cemented in fashion history.

Disclaimer: None of the above images are mine, nor am I claiming to own them.